... To Finding The Pirate Queen

Clare Island Lighthouse

Gráinne Mhaol's Castle

Prior to arriving to this country, I had never in my life heard of Ireland's pirate queen, Gráinne Mhaol (Grace O'Malley in English).  Gráinne Mhaol was born in the early 16th century, the only child of Gaelic aristocrats who made their living from both land and sea.  Her story, as I've tried to piece it together, is worth reading.  A woman who dismissed rules and regulations handed to her by family, culture, and establishment to become one of the most powerful leaders in an emerging Ireland.  A woman who had a reputation for ferocity and grit, who defied even Queen Elizabeth I during their singular meeting, refusing to bow and acknowledge her as Ireland's monarch.  A woman who led battalions of men, acquired tremendous wealth, and altogether changed the course of history.  A wife to two husbands and a mother to three children.  An example to women nearly 500 years later, as we continue fight to find our voices, and be heard above the din of thousands of years of patriarchy.

Needless to say, I knew I had to go where she'd been, see where she'd lived.  I arrived on Clare Island, where she lived and possibly died, with intentions to stay the night, and ended up leaving nearly a week later.  I just couldn't bare to leave what felt like perhaps the most haunting, spiritual place I've been.  Home to 170 full-time islanders, located off the coast of Mayo, it's just far enough away to feel like another world.  The islanders take care of their own as there are no police, but are also gifted at taking care of those of us just visiting, luckily for me.  

Abbey Where She's Likely Buried

It was a week of reflection and introversion, of really trying to absorb the spirit of the island.  I spent the days hiking for hours without encountering another human soul, exploring old ruins, and even sleeping on rocks, in nooks above the sea.  Evenings were spent with the locals, over traditional music and tasty pints.  I thought a lot about Gráinne, and all she went through, all she accomplished in her time.  

More than that though, I thought of the pirate queens who've come since, both recorded and not, as we all know it's still very much a written history.  I thought of the pirate queens in my life today, and was filled up.  Filled with gratefulness that I have so many strong, capable, tenderhearted women in my life.  Filled too with grief for all we have yet to do on behalf of our baby girls, and nieces, and mothers, and neighbors.  

In the midst of my musing, I read an Arab proverb, “If you expect to see the final results of your work, you have simply not asked a big enough question."  Gráinne Mhaol never stopped asking the questions, never accepted the patented, hollow responses of her day, and maybe that's her legacy to us.  Here's to the men and women everywhere asking the questions, and pushing back against systems of degradation and misogyny that continue to disable women and girls from living full lives the world over.  Here's to the pirate queen in us all.



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